How to Test Silver and Platinum at Home: Acid Test Guide for Resellers, Pawn Shops & Collectors (2026)
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Updated April 2026 • 9 min read • By Hanna Silkwood, TrueAssay Content Team
You picked up a lot at an estate sale. Half the pieces are marked .925, a few say PT950, and a couple have no stamp at all. Are they real? Are they plated? Are you about to overpay?
This guide shows you exactly how professional resellers, pawn shops, and estate buyers test silver and platinum at home using an acid testing kit — with full color charts, the exact workflow they use, and how to troubleshoot results that don't look clean.
New to acid testing? Start with our complete guide to testing gold at home and our gold acid test color chart, then come back here.
Safety First
Silver and platinum test acids are concentrated nitric acid (silver testers also contain potassium dichromate). Always:
- Wear nitrile gloves and safety glasses
- Work in a ventilated area — never on carpet or bare wood
- Keep baking soda nearby to neutralize spills
- Store acids upright, capped, away from children and pets
Why Silver and Platinum Are Harder to Test Than Gold
Gold has one main enemy: plating. Silver and platinum have several:
- Silver-plated base metal that looks identical to sterling
- Nickel silver / German silver — contains zero actual silver
- Rhodium-plated white gold mistaken for platinum
- Palladium and tungsten sold as platinum-look jewelry
A magnet and a visual check eliminate the obvious fakes. An acid test confirms the rest.
How to Test Silver at Home (Step by Step)
- Inspect the hallmark. Look for 925, 800, 900, 999, Sterling, or Coin. No stamp doesn't automatically mean fake — older and handmade pieces often lack one.
- Magnet test. Real silver is not magnetic. Strong pull = base metal or plated.
- Clean the piece with a soft cloth to remove polish, oil, and tarnish.
- Streak it on your testing stone — press firmly so a visible mark of metal transfers.
- Apply one drop of silver testing solution onto the streak.
- Watch the reaction for 10–20 seconds and compare to the chart below.
Silver Acid Test Color Chart
| Purity | Common Mark | Reaction Color | What It Means |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fine Silver | .999 | Bright red | Pure silver (bullion grade) |
| Sterling | .925 | Dark red / cranberry | Genuine sterling |
| Coin Silver | .900 | Brown-red | Older U.S. coin silver |
| Low-grade Silver | .800 | Green-brown | European / vintage silver |
| Nickel / Plated | — | Blue, green, or clear fizz | Not silver |
How to Test Platinum at Home (Step by Step)
- Check the hallmark. Real platinum is marked PT, PLAT, 900, 950, or 999.
- Weight check. Platinum is noticeably denser than silver or white gold. If it feels too light, test with extra scrutiny.
- Streak firmly on your testing stone. Platinum is hard — you need pressure to leave a mark.
- Apply platinum testing solution. This is a stronger acid than gold or silver testers.
- Watch for 30–60 seconds. Platinum reacts slowly, not instantly.
Platinum Acid Test Reactions
| Metal | Reaction to Platinum Acid | Verdict |
|---|---|---|
| Platinum 950 / 999 | No reaction; streak stays bright | Real platinum |
| Palladium | Slight red-brown fade | Palladium, not platinum |
| White Gold (rhodium plated) | Streak disappears; mild fizz | Not platinum |
| Silver / Nickel | Streak dissolves quickly; dark color | Not platinum |
Real vs Plated: Red Flags Before You Even Apply Acid
- Wear marks showing a different-colored base metal at high-contact points
- Green or black skin discoloration after wear
- Suspiciously light weight for the size
- EPNS, Silverplate, HGE, or Nickel Silver markings — none of these are real silver
- A perfectly clean piece with zero patina in high-purity silver (real silver tarnishes)
Acid Test Kit vs Electronic Tester: Which Is Better?
| Acid Test Kit | Electronic Tester | |
|---|---|---|
| Upfront cost | $20–$60 | $150–$800+ |
| Works on silver | Yes | Limited |
| Works on platinum | Yes | Often inaccurate |
| Detects plating | Clear visual signal | Often misses thick plating |
| Portable / no battery | Yes | No |
| Damage to piece | Tiny streak on stone | Surface contact only |
Most working resellers and pawn shops use both — electronic for a quick first pass on gold, and acid for confirmation and for every silver and platinum piece.
The Pawn Shop and Reseller Workflow
- Visual and hallmark check (10 seconds)
- Magnet test to eliminate steel and nickel
- Weigh the piece and note dimensions
- Streak on stone, apply correct acid for the suspected metal
- Cross-check with a second acid one level up in strength
- Neutralize the stone with baking soda water between tests
- Log the result with a photo — protects you on resale disputes
Common Mistakes and Troubleshooting
- Unclear color? Clean the stone and re-streak with more pressure.
- Streak disappears instantly on platinum acid? You're testing silver or white gold, not platinum.
- Sterling reacting too light? The piece may be under .925 — test with a drop of 18K gold acid for confirmation.
- No reaction at all on silver acid? Likely tungsten or hardened steel. Re-run the magnet test.
Recommended Kit
For testing all three metals in one go, our Essential Gold, Silver & Platinum Testing Kit includes every solution referenced in this guide, plus a professional testing stone. Browse all options on our testing kits collection or shop individual testing solutions.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I test silver without damaging the piece?
Yes. The acid touches only a tiny streak on your testing stone, not the jewelry itself.
Will an acid test work on silver-plated items?
Yes — that's one of its strengths. Plated pieces react with blue, green, or clear fizz instead of the deep red of real silver.
How do I tell platinum from white gold?
Apply platinum acid to a streak on your testing stone. Platinum shows no reaction; white gold fades or disappears.
Is 925 the same as sterling?
Yes. .925 means 92.5% pure silver, the international standard for sterling.
How long do testing solutions last?
Stored upright, sealed, and out of sunlight, most solutions stay accurate for 1–2 years.
Can I reuse my testing stone?
Yes. Rinse with water and baking soda between tests and let it air dry.
Do pawn shops use the same kit I can buy?
Yes. Professional acid kits are the same chemistry sold to consumers — the difference is workflow and experience.
What should I do if my result is ambiguous?
Re-streak with more pressure, use a stronger acid one level up, and compare against a known-good reference piece.
This article is for educational purposes. TrueAssay is not a certified assayer; for high-value pieces, confirm results with a licensed jeweler or assay office.
Related: How to Test Gold with Nitric Acid: Step-by-Step Safety & Accuracy Guide